CTFA Annual Report 2022

absorption” (within the living epidermis/dermis) and “percutaneous penetration” (amount passing through the skin). The European cosmetic industry developed an appropriate and officially accepted in vitro test system to measure dermal absorption/percutaneous penetration. Research & Development and Quality Control Workshop, August 2022: CTFA hosted a Research & Development and Quality Control workshop, with Mr John Knowlton, Cosmetic Solutions, and Ms Robyn Brown, Botanichem, who have years of experience and knowledge in the cosmetic industry. Mr Knowlton gave an in-depth look at the research and development process from inception to product launch. In his presentation he covered the product brief requirements, accurate costing of the project, product efficacy evaluation and finally the upscaling processes. Mr Knowlton also pointed out a lot of pitfalls that one should be aware of during the product development process. Ms Robyn Brown explained in depth the importance of quality control for a company, in her presentation she further explained the importance of stability testing, the use of a preservative as well as preservative challenge tests. Both presenters shared practical examples, and this was a very successful engagement. Sustainability webinar, September 2022: CTFA hosted a sustainability webinar to create awareness on what is currently happening regarding sustainability and what companies and individuals can do to ensure the Sustainable Development Goals (SDG’s) are met, as well as help companies implement achievable sustainability strategies. Mr Peter Lukey: Chief Director: Sector Knowledge and Information Management - Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment gave an in depth look at the seventeen SDGs as defined by the UN and what companies can do to help achieve these goals. He also took participants through what government is doing to achieve these SDG’s. Ms Devina Naidoo: Senior Policy Advisor: International Sustainable Development & Trade - Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment introduced the One Planet Network, which is a global community of practitioners, policymakers, and experts, including governments, businesses, civil society, academia, and international organisations, that implement the 10-Year Framework of Programmes on Sustainable Consumption and Production and works towards achieving SDG 12: ensuring sustainable patterns of consumption and production. InSites co-founder and Future Consumer Expert, Joeri Van den Bergh, focused more on South African consumers’ perception and comprehension of sustainability. It is a key concern amongst consumers in South Africa, yet, research shows that many people aren’t acting upon it. The resulting ‘sustainability paradox’ poses considerable challenges for brands. CTFA COMPENDIUM: The CTFA’s Cosmetic Compendium continues to be a reference document for the cosmetic industry, while the industry still awaits promulgation of the draft regulations, CTFA continues to guide the industry based on SABS standards, NRCS standards, Advertising code of practice, the European Legislation (EC Regulations 1223/2009), international guidelines and industry best practice. To ensure that members are aware of the upcoming changes that might affect them, the CTFA together with the Cosmetic Regulatory Review (CRR) work group implemented a notification process; in addition, the CTFA Cosmetic Compendium will be updated twice a year in January and July and will be available on the CTFA website. In 2022, there was a focus on the safety of some UV filters. The CTFA, with the guidance of industry experts from the Sun Care work group, adopted international changes to Octocrylene and Benzopehnone-3, updates were made in Annex VI – List of UV filters allowed in cosmetic products. A key change was that when a substance has been classified as a CMR, South Africa will adopt the same date as the European Union. We strive to align as closely as possible to the European Union regulatory updates, whilst still keeping in mind the challenges that the industry faces in the self-regulatory environment, this will help to prevent an opportunity where non-compliant products can be introduced in the South African market. CTFA and its members always strive to ensure that we have a responsible industry where consumer safety is a priority. REGULATORY TRENDS: Safety and Accountability: As the world began to readjust to life after COVID 19, a big concern turned to safety and accountability of Cosmetic Products in 2022 globally. Countries such as China, Japan, South Korea, India, USA and Botswana have worked hard to bring out new legislations relating to companies manufacturing Cosmetic Products encompassing Responsible Persons and their functions, ingredient safety in formulations, product declarations and registration with the governing bodies. There are no signs of slowing down, but rather moving forward into implementation and monitoring. With consumer safety being the underlying message, companies are held more accountable with their products being placed on databases and can be traced more efficiently. There is a drive in cutting down the spread of potentially hazardous unauthorised products in the illicit market. Sustainability: A heightened environmental awareness amongst consumers, companies and governments was present over the past year. The cosmetic industry had been brought under the spotlight when the sustainability trend began a few years ago due to the amount of one-use plastic products such as shampoo bottles polluting the oceans. In response, companies began putting sustainability at its core when researching and innovating products. Refillable products, recyclable and biodegradable packaging (circular packaging) and waterless cosmetics have made appearances worldwide. Sustainability was not limited to just packaging alone as deforestation, climate change, depletion of natural resources makes headlines, ingredients and their sustainable usage were seen as just as important. Consumers are becoming more aware of the impact that material depletion has on the planet and cosmetic companies have responded with ingredients and related marketing that emphasise sustainable ingredient COSMETIC TOILETRY AND FRAGRANCE ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA 14